Arikok National Park
Birding
in the Hill Country
Description: The
best spot to feel the real natural beauty of the island is in
Arikok National Park, which lies in the hilly northeast section
of the island. The park consists of rolling hills covered with
thorn-scrub vegetation. Unfortunately, goats were introduced
to the island centuries ago, and they have devastated much of
the vegetation. Some areas within the park have been fenced
off from the goats, allowing the native plantlife to make a
comeback. The hill country of Arikok offers breathtaking views
of the island, from the urban areas and resorts to the luscious
green Caribbean.
Getting There: Although most maps bear the
location, “Arikok National Park,” on them, you may
find it difficult to find the park entrance or to get a sense
of its boundaries from these. In recent years park staff have
developed some nice signage and trails through the park, but
you’ve got to get there first! The best way to get there
is to drive to Santa Cruz and follow signs for Miralamar Pass.
If you pass a pink building on the left called the Urataka Center,
which is a sort-of bar/restaurant/ice cream stand (and a great
place to stop for refreshments), then you’re on the right
road. The road will turn to dirt, and eventually you’ll
see signs that indicate that you’re in Arikok National
Park.
If you see this place, you are on the right road to
Arikok!
Photo
Allison Wells
The road in the park may be badly potholed and gouged by torrents
caused by heavy rains, so you may be more comfortable in a four-wheel
drive (although we’ve seen people drive just about everything
up and down these roads). Once in the park, take the left leading
up a relatively steep hill to a small parking lot, perhaps 100
meters or so up. From here you can choose to hike on various
trails for various distances. The trail to the West, toward
Cunucu Arikok takes you to a walled-in area where the goats
have been kept out and native vegetation has somewhat flourished.
The trail through Cunucu Arikok is very pleasant, with lots
of places to stop and sit in the shade.
Anywhere in Arikok is best visited in the early part of the
day, since it gets intensely hot here from late morning on.
Not only is the park pleasantly cool in the very early morning
but the birdlife is also most interesting then, since bird activity
has a very short post-dawn peak here. Remember to bring plenty
of water. Also watch for snakes; although now unfortunately
very rare, the Aruban Rattlesnake does occur here. Sadly, boas
have been introduced here, further upsetting the natural ecosystem
balance, although they are harmless to humans.
Birds to Look For: In Arikok, Troupials
are plentiful—listen for their loud, piping songs. Yellow
Orioles, Burrowing Owls, Crested
Caracaras, Bare-eyed Pigeons,
Eared Doves, Common
Ground-Doves, White-tipped Doves, Rufous-collared Sparrows,
Crested Bobwhites, Caribbean
Parakeets, both hummingbird species, Brown-crested Flycatchers,
Scrub Flycatcher are among the many species you’re likely
to see and here inside the park. One of our favorites is the
Rufous-collared Sparrow, whose beautifully clear whistle echoes
through the hills and over the valleys. Be on the look-out for
White-tailed Hawk; although we have not found any anywhere during
the many visits we’ve made to the island, they’ve
occurred here in the past.
The Arikok
hills, though normally dry, can suddenly
turn lush
green after periods with significant rain
as in January
1999 when this photo was taken.
Photo
Allison Wells.